Where to Eat
Where to Eat in Thailand
Thai food is one of the great reasons to visit. From the pad thai stalls of Bangkok to the khao soi of Chiang Mai and the fresh seafood of the southern coasts, each region has its own flavours worth seeking out.
Thai food is four cuisines, not one
The dishes that travelled abroad are almost all central Thai, which is why a first trip so often produces the same green curry in four cities. The country is more interesting than that. Northern food is closer to Burmese, northeastern food is closer to Lao, and southern food is hotter and drier than either. The regions below are the ones worth eating your way through.
-
Central
Bangkok and the rice plain
The Thai food most of the world has met. Coconut milk, palm sugar and a balance struck between sweet, sour and salty rather than a race to the hottest.
- Pad thai
- Green curry
- Tom yum goong
- Boat noodles
- Mango sticky rice
-
Northern
Chiang Mai and the hills
Lanna cooking, closer to Burma and Yunnan than to Bangkok. Less coconut, more herbs and fermentation, and sticky rice eaten with the hands instead of steamed rice with a spoon.
- Khao soi
- Sai ua sausage
- Nam prik ong
- Gaeng hang lay
-
Northeastern
Isan, and every Isan stall in Bangkok
The food of about a third of the country and the reason grilled chicken and papaya salad are everywhere. Sharp, sour, salty, chilli-forward, and the hottest of the four by some distance.
- Som tam
- Larb
- Gai yang
- Sticky rice
-
Southern
Phuket, Krabi and the coasts
Seafood, turmeric and the strongest Muslim and Malay influence in Thai cooking. Curries here are drier and hotter than the central versions of the same name.
- Massaman curry
- Gaeng som
- Khua kling
- Grilled fish
The chilli question
Thai kitchens cooking for visitors dial the heat down by default, and Thai kitchens cooking for Thais do not. Two phrases settle it either way: mai phet for not spicy, and phet nit noi for a little spicy. Neither is a guarantee, particularly with som tam, where the chillies are pounded in before anyone asks.
If you have overdone it, rice helps and water does not. Nor does beer.
Eating without meat
Easier than in most countries and harder than it looks, because fish sauce and shrimp paste go into things that read as vegetable dishes. The word that solves it is jay, which means the Buddhist vegetarian tradition and excludes fish sauce, eggs and dairy along with meat. A stall with a yellow and red jay flag is entirely vegan.
Every October, or sometimes late September, Phuket's Vegetarian Festival turns much of the island jay for nine days.
Street food, and whether to
Yes, with one rule: eat where the queue is. A busy stall turns its ingredients over in hours rather than days and cooks in front of you, which is more than most restaurant kitchens can say. What is worth avoiding is the opposite: a quiet stall with trays of pre-cooked food sitting warm.
How a Thai meal works
Dishes arrive when they are ready and are shared, not plated per person. Rice is the centre of the meal and everything else is something to eat with it. The fork is for pushing food onto the spoon, and the spoon goes in your mouth; chopsticks are for noodles.
Start eating
Food by region
-
Bangkok Street FoodThe capital has some of the world's best street food: boat noodles, mango sticky rice and the night markets of Yaowarat.
-
Chiang Mai & the NorthNorthern cuisine has its own character: khao soi curry noodles, sai oua sausage and the Saturday-Sunday walking-street markets.
-
Southern SeafoodFresh catch on the Andaman coast: grilled fish, green curry with seafood and the massaman curries of the Muslim south.
-
Gulf Coast FlavoursKoh Samui and the Gulf islands: fresh fish, coconut-rich curries and the beachside grills that most visitors remember longest.
-
Floating MarketsVisit a floating market for paddles and produce, where vendors sell fresh dishes straight from the boat.
-
Food ToursA guided food tour in Bangkok or Chiang Mai covers more ground, more dishes and more stalls than going it alone.
Food & market experiences
-
Floating Market ToursHalf-day · Thailand
-
Bangkok Food & Culture3-4 hours · Bangkok
-
Walking & Street-Food ToursVaries · Thailand
Eat well from day one
How to navigate Thai food
-
On a tight budget
Street stalls and market vendors serve the same dishes as restaurants for a fraction of the price. Look for a stall with a queue and a busy wok.
-
Spice level
Thai food can be genuinely hot. Say "pet nit noi" (a little spicy) when ordering. Most vendors will adjust, so ask at the start, not after.
-
Dietary restrictions
Vegetarian options exist but fish sauce turns up in most dishes. "Jay" is the Thai word for strict vegan food; look for yellow-flag jay stalls at markets.
Food & market experiences
Free cancellation
The Newest Luxury 5-Star Bangkok Chao Phraya Dinner Cruise
Free cancellation
Bangkok Canal Tour: 2-Hour Longtail Boat Ride
Free cancellation
Half-Day Thai Cooking Class at Organic Farm in Chiang Mai
Free cancellation
Phang Nga Bay Canoeing & James Bond Island Tour from Phuket
Free cancellation
Deep Mangrove and Canyon Kayak Tour in Krabi
Free cancellation
Half Day Highlights Koh Samui Tour
Free cancellation
Private Tour: Best of Bangkok in A Day
Free cancellation
Half-Day Floating Market and Railway Market Tour from Bangkok
Free cancellation
Chiang Rai White and Blue Temples Private Trip
Free cancellation
Southern Flavors Phuket Food Tour with 15+ Tastings
Free cancellation
One Day Tour Khao Sok Cheow Lan Lake from Krabi
Free cancellation
Angthong National Marine Park VIP Small Group Tour
Food questions, answered
What food should I try in Thailand?+
Pad thai, green curry, massaman curry, khao soi (in the north), mango sticky rice and fresh papaya salad are the dishes most visitors remember. Each region adds its own versions.
Is street food safe to eat in Thailand?+
Generally yes, if the stall is busy and the food is cooked fresh in front of you. High turnover means the ingredients are fresh. Avoid pre-cooked dishes that have been sitting out.
How cheap is eating out in Thailand?+
Very. A full meal from a street stall costs a fraction of what you would pay at a restaurant in Europe. Even a sit-down restaurant is inexpensive by most Western standards.
Can vegetarians eat well in Thailand?+
Better than in many countries. Tofu dishes, vegetable stir-fries and rice-based meals are everywhere. The main challenge is hidden fish sauce, so learning a few Thai phrases helps a lot.
What is the best food city in Thailand?+
Bangkok for sheer variety and the highest concentration of great stalls. Chiang Mai for distinctive northern dishes and relaxed night markets. Both are worth spending real time in for the food alone.